Cold weather chickens – 8 things NOT to do to in winter November 16, 2012

How to prepare your chickens for winter isn’t especially intuitive, and many people may take steps that can actually make things more difficult for their flock rather than helping them to become cold weather chickens!  Choosing cold hardy breeds (if you live in an area of cold winters) is certainly an important first step! But presuming you’ve already made good breed choices, you’ll also want to know what NOT to do for your cold weather chickens.

1. Don’t keep your chickens closed up in their coop when it’s cold.

Cold weather chickens - speckled sussex in the snow

We like to go outside, even in the winter!

Instead, good cold weather chickens can be allowed to decide when they want to stay in or come out. You might think that your chickens won’t want to go outside in the snow, and sometimes that’s true. Some of your chickens will hate it, and will stay inside most of the day, but others won’t mind it at all. The only time I keep the coop door closed during the day is when the snow is too deep for my cold weather chickens to walk in, or when it’s just so bitter and windy I know no one will come out. (And even then, I sometimes open the door just in case).

One of my cold weather chickens in the snow

Poor Prissy, my Rhode Island Red, sometimes comes outside and only afterwards realizes she doesn’t want to be out in the snow! Here she is having flown to an old chair so she doesn’t have to walk in it, anymore.

2. Don’t tightly insulate your coop. I know that seems strange, but it’s true–tightly insulated coops can cause more harm than good. If your coop is tightly insulated, not only will it retain heat, it will also retain moisture… and retaining moisture in the coop is very, very bad. Chickens create a lot of moisture from their respirations. A lot of moisture also evaporates from their droppings. And in winter, they’ll be spending more time inside, even if just because of the longer winter nights! More droppings build up–and more moisture—and a lot of moisture in the air to condense and freeze will contribute to frostbite. All that humidity also increases the risk of unhealthy conditions in the coop leading to respiratory ailments and mold-related illnesses. Plus, poor ventilation can also cause ammonia gas to build up inside your coop, which is damaging to your chickens’ lungs. Cold weather chickens need a coop to be well ventilated but not drafty.

3. Don’t heat your coop. This is another piece of advice that seems completely counter-intuitive…  however it’s good advice for a number of reasons. Chickens adapt to lower temperatures over time. If the coop is heated, they’ll never become real cold weather chickens—they’ll never get used to the cold winter temperatures outside. Then, if you lose power and their heat goes out, the sudden sharp drop in temperatures with no time to acclimate means you could lose your whole flock in one terrible, fell swoop. Even if it doesn’t come to that, if your chickens are hesitant to spend time outside, they will spend even more time inside the coop making the air wet and breathing the unhealthy, moist air. Finally, heating the coop is often a fire hazard. Remember, chicken coops are generally pretty dusty places, and we hear stories every year from people who have lost their coops—and their flock—to chicken coop fires. The only time I heat my coop is during a sudden, precipitous drop in temperature, just to help ease the transition for my cold weather chickens.

4. Don’t forget to gather eggs more often than usual. If you have cold weather chickens, some may continue to lay during the winter, and the eggs could freeze. While this doesn’t really hurt them, exactly, it IS a risk for bacterial contamination, because the frozen egg contents expand, and can create tiny hairline cracks in the shell you might not see with the naked eye. The cracks can let bacteria into the shell. Of course, at cold temperatures, the bacteria doesn’t grow very quickly, but nonetheless, keeping cracked eggs is just not a good idea. Plus, there’s nothing like opening your refrigerator to find that an egg has thawed and seeped out all over everything—ugh, what a mess!

frozen egg

If I find an egg with a hairline crack, I don’t save it. Instead, I use it right away by cooking up scrambled eggs for the girls, who enjoy some warm treats on a cold day! (It sometimes takes a while to thaw before I’m able to scramble them, though…)


5. Don’t let your water freeze. Keeping fresh, unfrozen water for your flock in the winter can be a challenge. There are always the heated waterers, but—I admit it—I don’t care for these very much. (There are people here at My Pet Chicken who swear by them, though, and they may work for you just fine.) Personally, I don’t like the fire risk, although they are much safer than as trying to heat the coop. I’ve also found them to be generally harder to use and clean than regular waterers. One heated waterer I had filled itself so close to the rim that it needed to be EXACTLY level so it wouldn’t simply pour its contents out on the floor. Another worked well, except for the fact that the chickens kept unplugging it. A third functioned nicely in reasonably mild cold weather, but in very bitter cold, the top of the reservoir would freeze, so that the bottom heated portion where the chickens were meant to drink from would run completely dry. I haven’t found a heated waterer that works very well for me and my cold weather chickens. Instead, I just use multiple waterers. In the morning, I bring in a fresh waterer, and bring in the waterer that was in the coop overnight, and is now frozen. By the time that one is thawed, the other one is nearly frozen, so I switch them out. It requires a lot of walking and carrying, but my preference is to do it that way rather than use expensive heated waterers for my flock.

6. Don’t put off coop cleaning. Because your cold weather chickens will be spending more time inside and creating more droppings inside as a result, the coop will need cleaning more often. For myself, I like to use the deep litter method for managing my coop rather than frequent cleanings, but even doing that, new bedding needs to be added more frequently in the winter to make sure everything stays dry and cozy.

7. Don’t let your birds get too bored. If they have a very small coop and run, there may not be a whole lot to entertain your flock like there is during warmer months. When snow is on the ground, there will be little or no sun bathing. With the ground frozen, dust bathing is unlikely. There won’t be lots of bugs to catch or greens to forage. Bored birds may become snippy or even aggressive with one another if there isn’t anything to think about or do other than reinforce the pecking order over and over again. Alleviate some of the boredom for your cold weather chickens by adding treats to their area. For instance, hang a head of cabbage in your coop for your girls to peck at. As they peck, it swings, making it more difficult to eat immediately, and keeping them entertained for hours. My chickens, seemingly unlike any other chickens in the world, don’t care for cabbage, but there are other treats that can work well for entertainment. For example, suet cakes work well. I prefer to use something high protein, like the Optimal Forage Cake designed for chickens and other domestic poultry, but in winter time something that’s also high in fat (like scratch or cracked corn) can give them the extra calories they need to help stay warm. You can also simply scatter some scratch inside the run for them to forage for—that will keep them entertained, too.

8. Don’t forget to protect their combs. Most cold weather chickens have small combs, but if you have breeds with very large combs, a little petroleum jelly can weatherize them, because it helps guard against frostbite. Spread a little petroleum jelly on their combs. Keep in mind that it needs to be a barely-there, thin layer to help keep their combs from getting chapped. Healthy skin decreases susceptibility to frostbite, so you’re just trying to keep the exposed skin from getting chapped and cracked. Some people assume if a little Vaseline is good, then more is better, but that’s not true! Put on only as much as you’d want on your lips to help keep them moist.

Do you have any other suggestions for preparing your cold weather chickens for winter? Please share below in the comments!

Susan November 16th, 2012

Hi… I use heated buckets for watering during the winter. I do not put food or water in the coops. They are placed just outside the pop doors. I leave their doors open except on the most blustery nights. My coops are surrounded by welded wire fencing surrounded by railroad ties so nothing can get in. I have found that not keeping water in the coops greatly cut down on moisture issues since heating water makes it evaporate it would add to the moisture from the chickens. I use deep litter too… only way to go… deep litter also supplies some heat for them as well.

vicki November 16th, 2012

Great information. I to supply my birds with warm water. Our birds seem to do well in all types of weather, but we do close them in every night.

Nancy Dixon November 16th, 2012

Thank you so much for this article..Really Really helpful with my first winter with my tweet Tweets (so my granddaughter calls them)

Jamey Hutchens November 16th, 2012

Great article! This is my first winter with my girls also, so I’m a little nervous. This gave me good information that I needed to know! I was planning on doing a couple of the things it said not to, so I’m definitely glad this was posted.

Tierney Clark November 16th, 2012

What good info. I knew about the vaseline, but never thought about the moisture buildup in the coop. I have a very large coop that was a stroage shed before it became their home, and the ventilation is good. There’s a hole where a dryer could have been vented, and althoug my hens go in at night through a window, that I close at night, I leave it cracked. The squirrles are bad around here and my coop is right under a big ole oak tree (Florida). It helps so much in the summer.

But I do heat my coop, although I have thought of the fire hazard. It is electric, but it’s one of those gel filled ones that look like a radiator and it never gets really hot. Just knocks off the chill and there is no open elements or fans etc. And I also use lots of bedding too so they can nest down in it.

I think it was here that I read to put a little apple cider vinegar in the water, and I do that. And we rarely freeze here for more than maybe one night, here and there. But it’s a wet windy cold
I really enjoy reading your blogs and the info is always so helpful! Thanks again!

Peggy Moyer November 16th, 2012

I don’t heat my coop, though I might put a small bulb in there for added lighted hours, for water I bought the smallest horse water dishes, the rubber ones, if the water freezes just pop it out and refill~ I check their water 3 to 4 times a day. For added treats I like to cook them scrambled eggs, oatmeal or cooked pasta< a favorite with my girls~ I think it helps them stay warm~

Jenn Davis November 16th, 2012

I don’t know if it is an old wives tale or not, but I give my chickens a lot of cooked oatmeal in the winter with a kick- I add cayenne pepper (quite a bit) to it. It raises their temperature on really cold days and adds a bit of a treat to their diet during the day. I will also add scrambled eggs, especially if we have cracked ones. Frozen water is always and issue in upstate New York, but the rubber dishes do help…

Sami in NY November 16th, 2012

I use small igloo coolers (6pk or 12 size) for water. I fill them with luke warm water in the morning and they don’t really freeze unless it’s bitterly cold. At night I empty them and bring them in.

Merrill Johnson November 16th, 2012

I have5 ducks and 21 black Australorps. I leave a little water running during the night and during the day if it is below freezing. The chicken drink from the duck pool. I also have a heat lamp above the roosts that I turn on when the night is extremely cold. A light comes on every morning at four and shuts off at eight.

Ti Kelley November 17th, 2012

In the winter i use leftover bacon and beef grease to make my own suet food for the chickens by packing a baking dish with oatmeal and a bit of 5-grain scratch then pouring and stirring in the grease. let cool and watch em go nuts! I also put a tarp on the wire roof of their run so they have a dry place to be outside. Also I make sure they have a dry place to dust so parasites don’t take hold.

Matthew Curtiss November 17th, 2012

Great article ! I build chicken coops and other fine structures and i tell folks as much information i can about chickens ! So now i have even more knowledge to pass on.

Charlene Ribaudo November 17th, 2012

We insulate our large coop but leave the door open during the day and then 4″ of fresh air intake the rest of the time. We do keep a heat lamp over the waterer so it won’t freeze. I also use the deep litter method but I mix it with paper from the shredder. It really cuts down on the dust! My local UPS store keeps me in good supply. We’re in MN and gets very cold but we’ve never had problems with the combs. They seem to know when to come in out of the cold. I liked the idea of the tarp and will keep that in mind. We shovel out an area so they run around and scratch at corn. Thanks for the great tip on the homemade suet. I am going to try it. I’m sure they’ll love it.

Ariana {And Here We Are...} December 7th, 2012

Thank you! This is really helpful– I am another one who has chickens for the first winter this year. I love the idea of hanging a cabbage to keep the chickens entertained…

Steve Weckbacher December 7th, 2012

How often should the petroleum jelly be placed on the combs to winterize them. I live in an area where it gets pretty cold in the winters, and I have experienced some frostbitten combs in the past…would love to avoid it this winter!

Lissa December 10th, 2012

How often to apply the jelly will vary, depending on the severity of the weather. The aim is simply to keep the combs from getting chapped, so keep an eye out. If the skin appears to be getting dry, that means it’s probably past time for an application.

tjmary December 10th, 2012

We were told to hang old DVD’s for them to peck to alleviate bordem but we saw no interest. Going to try non-glass mirrors to see if that will interest them more. Scratch, meal worms, old bread or corn chips are great treats to keep them busy. It is not really that hard to raise mealworms, too, if you don’t find them creepy :) Popcorn keeps birds busy since they can’t just swallow it down. It requires more effort to break it up. Fairly cheap, too. I grow squash and pumpkins. They keep well and and I can offer them later in the winter as treats, seeds and all. If starting to go, they can be cut into chunks and frozen to be fed later. Same can be done with lots of produce like cukes that are getting soft, tomatoes, fruits, etc. We bring out HOT tap water and it lasts longer before freezing. We have goats so my birds have learned to drink from buckets. Nice since they are more weather proof than waterers. If frozen, I just switch buckets or break through the ice on the top. Buckets are so easy to carry, too. Love the oatmeal idea. Have done cream of wheat. Also pancakes and rice.

Autumn December 11th, 2012

I never thought of keeping my hens busy but I have some hens that were born in Aug & they will not be able to “play” like my spring chicks do all summer. I tried putting a tarp over part of the run one winter but we got a bit too much snow one night, causing my netting to stretch & the whole get-up to sag. I do shovel an area for them in front of the door & put goodies in some grass hay so they can scratch & peck.

I once lost my hens to a coop fire, loosing my garage also. It was not from the heat lamp, which I constantly checked, but from the extension cord that must have gotten too old & cracked/frayed and sparked one extremely cold night. Now ALL cords get replaced, even just to lightbulbs, every fall.

Marlin December 11th, 2012

I live in southern california where the weather isn’t that cold, yet my girls are not laying any eggs at this time. Any recommendations as to what they might need?

Lissa December 11th, 2012

Marlin, we can’t know from here why your girls aren’t laying right now. Molting? Not old enough? Parasite infestation? However, it might help you to browse through the “Not Laying” section in the Chicken Help pages section of our website to help you narrow down what might be going on.

Lori December 12th, 2012

I need to move some chickens outdoors (they’ve lived in my basement – temp around 60). How can I acclimate them to outdoor living for winter in Wisconsin (I just bought a new coop) – or – is it too late for this year?

Lissa December 12th, 2012

Lori, that’s a common question, so we address it in the Chicken Help pages of our website here.

Carol Reddick December 16th, 2012

Great info for our first winter…of course, we’re in Louisiana so we’re not likely to get more than one or two snowfalls. It does drop below freezing several nights during the winter though, so it’s good to know.

May I post a link on my website?

April Ann December 29th, 2012

This is my first winter with chickens, having received my flock of 6 from friends in August. I have a chicken tractor for right now, which they all love. I built them a big covered run for play that has a dog house at the opening. I have 1 rooster and 5 hens. The hens all take turns laying their egg in the dog house. I do deep litter in the coop and run. I change out water every morning, with some cider vinegar. On cold mornings they get warm mash. They always have fruit and veggie scraps. I give them meal worms, black oil sunflower seeds, cracked corn and popcorn for treats. I don’t heat my coop or waterer, nor do I add light to the coop. I have received 5 eggs almost every day, except when one of the girl’s takes a day off. Thanks for all of this wonderful information and for your website. It is a great help to us newbie backyard chicken parents.

Lori January 4th, 2013

what is a good dusting substance during the winter when the ground is too frozen?

Lissa January 4th, 2013

Dust baths won’t seize up unless there is some moisture in the dirt or dust to freeze. So, if your chickens’ regular dusting hole is not covered and has frozen with moisture, you can always provide them with an alternative like a child’s covered sand box that you can keep dry. (Sand doesn’t hold moisture as well as clay does, either, so sand is a little easier to keep dry in a dust bath situation.) You can also make your own small dust bath by constructing a simple wooden frame and filling it with dusting materials like sand plus a little wood ash and/or diatomaceous earth. Good old (dry) dirt works well, too. Then put the dust bath in a sheltered area. In pinch, you might use a plastic storage tub, but I’ve found they don’t work especially well long term because the chickens want to perch on the sides when planning their angle of entry, and that can overturn a box that doesn’t weigh very much.

Walt S. January 6th, 2013

I never thought to keep them from being bored. I live in WY so it gets pretty bitter cold here some times. I leave there door open day and night so they can go in and out as they want. I keep there food in side there coop in the winter but i leave there water outside and give them warm water as well. When the snow melts and there run is dry they dig holes and wallow in it for hours.
I only get about 1 egg a week and I have 6 hens, a couple roosters and my 5 ducks also share the coop and run with them. Any one got any ideas why they arnt laying?

Joann January 6th, 2013

My girls love to go outside. They are like little kids in the snow. When they get bored, I put homemade suet treats out for them. All summer, as I mow the yard, I mix up grass cuttings, chopped tomatoes and cucumbers and what ever else doesnt get used from the garden with a bit of natural peanutbutter and cracked corn. Freeze into small blocks. Once the grass is gone for the winter, I thaw some out and hang in a suet feeder. They stay busy and still get their greens. For extra protection during the winter, I buy old sheets from goodwill and hang them on the north side of the run fence. The sheets will help block the wind. After rain or snow, the sheets freeze and act like a wall to stop even more wind. Plus, they dont tear in the wind like plastic would.

annie January 6th, 2013

I pop popcorn, then put it on old potato bags and hang it from the side walls in the coop. They have to jump and wrestle it around to get it, and it amuses them for hours. When I ‘can’ in the fall, I keep all the trimmings and skins from things and freeze them, then in the winter, I bring out tomato skins, apple peels, broccoli leaves, etc, and thaw and then put it in the “treat”bin…..that way, they get fresh stuff in the winter months also..

Rikki January 7th, 2013

My poor girls (and our “oops roo”)… it’s been below freezing for the past week and we’re expecting more snow this week. The first few days of snow, my blue Polish (who is dumb as a box of rocks and not a very good layer, but hilarious and we love her) ate snow until she could eat no more. I was afraid that the poor thin thing would get hypothermia, but she seems to have been adjusting just fine.

We have four of the listed cold-weather breeds, but everyone (9 pullets and our cockerel) seems to enjoy roosting on the sides of the garden boxes when the sun’s out, with their feathers fluffed up and trying to get as warm as possible. Silly things won’t stay in the coop where it’s about 10 degrees warmer, though. Nope. They may not like the snow, but they like being inside less.

Inside the coop (a converted storage closet connected to the carport, they have a heat lamp, a heated waterer (which I need to change often, since it’s inside because it’s too cold to be outside), and deep litter. There is a tarp over the doorway to keep snow and rain out. They also like huddling under the dryer vent when it’s going and on the air conditioner sill outside our kitchen window. I have to admit, they have us trained well. We just open the window when someone knocks on the glass and they get whatever kitchen scraps we have handy. :-)

Mary January 7th, 2013

My hens are experiencing frostbite on their combs. I do apply pet. Jelly. I also leave water in coop as it doesn’t freeze as fast as water in run and I work so that’s an issue. I close pop door at night and leave another top door open a crack at night. I shut barn door. The coop is in a stall in the barn. I’m thinking waterer is source of frostbite. Suggestions? I do deep litter method. Thanks.

Lissa January 7th, 2013

You don’t mention what breeds you’re keeping, or what kind of climate you’re living in and how cold it’s actually getting. In some areas it will get so cold that despite all winter precautions (ventilation, protected combs, etc.) frostbite is still a danger, and combs will turn black and die. If that’s happening to you (after you’ve provided appropriate medical care for your hens who are suffering, of course) you’ll probably want to consider keeping a more cold hardy flock in the future. For instance, the Buckeye is known as a great breed for cold weather. They also have small, pea combs so they aren’t nearly as susceptible to frostbite as breeds with large single combs are. The Chantecler is another great choice; they’ve been specifically bred for the coldest of winters.

Nick January 7th, 2013

dont have worry about that too much in florida

Melanie January 7th, 2013

I live at 9000 ft in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado…and I heat my coop. The girls can come and go if they please, and they do. If they are cold, they go back in. Chickens, no mater what breed, are not indigenous to the mountains, or the altitude, and If my dog shouldn’t be left out out in the cold, then neither should my chickens. If your chickens are getting’s too cold for them!

Laura Jenkins January 7th, 2013

This is my fifth year with my girls. The only year I put heat in the coop was when we had some sub zero temps. This year…no heat…no lights. I read a great article on the importance of ventilation….you need to keep chickens out of a direct wind or draft but they all need the ventilation. As you pointed out the moisture build up needs some where to go…and in this article it pointed out the the build up of amonia from the droppings will harm their lungs. I do twice a day water changes and they get warmed water on the coldest of mornings. I too have heard that you can add a little cayenne pepper to their food, I add it to their scratch sometimes and I have also heated up a sweet potato for them and once it was cool enough for them added some of the pepper. They love the warm food….

Maryelen Charnovesky February 3rd, 2013

Wonderful article. Thank you. This is my first winter with my chickens and so far we are doing okay. I spend a good deal of time researching and asking other local chicken people. I am working through the winter will much trial and error.
I live in Vermont, so,it does get pretty cold. I have been using a heat lamp only when it is frigid. After reading this article, I plan to use it less.
My crew is adverse to the metal drinker and the water heater. I would clean it every day and refill with fresh water but I did notice something odd. When I would empty it, the trough water would always have an bad smell. I work in microbiology so I cultured it…omg ! I felt like a heel knowing I was leaving it for them to drink, and this was with me cleaning it every day! I now use the plastic watered and switch it out often. It makes me feel much better.
I am using the deep bedding method for the bottom of my coop but I have installed a poop board (2 planks of wood) under their perches. I clean that about every other day and the bottom of my coop stays clean and mostly dry. I do turn the bottom bedding when I clean the poop boards. It seems to work well.
Is it a lot of work, yes, but the joy of caring for these wonderful living creatures gives me great joy.
Thanks again. It’s site has been a godsend right from the very beginning.

Regina hall February 16th, 2013

Thanks for the info. Am going to put cider vinegar in my ladies water in the morning.
Am interested in getting some French copper murans . Want to try keeping a small
Flock of them seperate from my backyard flock.

WendyPC7 March 2nd, 2013

Love your article. I’ve been wanting to get chickens for a while. All that stops me is housing them. I have a garden shed that’s maybe 10×12′ that I’m thinking I’d like to keep them in. The thing is it’s been used as a garden shed for years. There’s lawnmower oil on the floor, fertilizer residue, lime dust, etc. I garden organically, but there’s plenty of organic stuff that’s still very nasty. How much do I need to do to make the space safe for them? Will I still be able to keep my shovels and rakes in there? How much of a shared space can it be, or does it have to be hen house only?

Lissa March 4th, 2013

I think you’ll find that you’ll want it to be hen house only… mostly because the chickens will try to roost on anything they can, and because it will be so dusty in there. On the other hand, you might be able to make a closet or something like that which would keep out the chickens and worst of the dust. As to making it clean for your flock, you’ll want to do your best. I wouldn’t worry too awful much about organic fertilizer residue. A dusting of bonemeal beneath your bedding—as much as you weren’t able remove by cleaning—is unlikely to hurt your flock. It depends on what organic fertilizers you’ve used, of course, but generally speaking, those are meant to break down, and chickens make their own organic fertilizers that you will be cleaning from the coop. :) If you have questions about the safety of specific products you used, contact the manufacturer for more information. I WOULD be more concerned about oil or gas residue because it’s pretty toxic. Try to clean that up as much as you would if there had been a spill in your living room. After all, if your chickens are exposed to those things, you may well be exposed to them, too, when you’re eating their eggs! You may even want to replace part of the floor if you can’t get it properly clean; better safe than sorry.

Lisa March 7th, 2013

thank you for this. up to this point, I have had a heater in my chicken coop and I let them out in the daytime . was so very worried that they might freeze. now I know better. I do like to keep a light in there in case of predators it tends to keep them away.

Becky-Minnesota March 9th, 2013

I have spoiled They have a large 50×50 fort knox pen with a coop and day building. The coop is heated during the night time till morning. Their other building is all made of corrugated polycarbonate panels from my greenhouse that blew down. It is A frame so just a bit of winter sun heats it up pretty toasty. They head outside every morning when I open the coop and head to the other building for their food and water. The A frame has about a foot of straw on the floor and they are happy to dust bath. Every day they get fresh greens and either raisens/soaked mealy worms/ or some other treat to go with the greens. They also get straw thrown on the path to the different buildings after every snow which they love to play in and it also keeps their feet a bit warmer. On sunny warm days they pretty much stay outside and roost on straw bales or their tree branch playground. Happy chicks mean eggs all winter long.

Nessa March 14th, 2013

I have 10 Rhode chickens and 3 Pekin Ducks all in one big coop. We didnt get around to insulating it but I chose the deep litter method and SOME occasional heating. I have it off now that we are not in the -40’s C with windchill. I also used the heat lamp above the water to keep from freezing and it did awesome all winter. I would make sure to go out often to check on the water. And as it mentioned, I would give them the option to roam during the day if they chose to. USUALLY… my birds will tell me if they are out of water or food during the day. I would either hear my ducks YELLING or my chicken will come up the deck and peck at my patio door. I recently learned that I can’t rely on the chickens now. As the weather warms they are ALWAYS at my door and they just want some attention :) This is my first time with chickens and ducks and didn’t lose a single one AWESOME :) I also have my male cat that lives in the coop with the chickens and think that deters the mice, one pomeranian helps me gather the eggs. In total, 10 chickens, 3 ducks, 2 cats, 4 dogs, and 8 humans… my crazy farm :) <3

Gen March 15th, 2013

I am going to be doing my first winter with chickens this upcoming winter.i had the idea of using a fishtank heater to keep our water from freezing. We have a bucket with the chicken spout nipples for them. Has anyone tried this? We have a fishtank that always has the heater submerged and has never been a problem for years.

Plus I was thinking of releasing a few love crickets into the coop here and there as A snack.

andrea March 19th, 2013

My chicks are almost a month old and still inside my house. I am in the process of renovating an 8×11 shed into their coop. I also have the problem of oil stains as it was a garden shed. I plan on cleaning it the best I can and the laying linoleum down. The flooring will be covered with bedding. People I have talked to highly recomend this. I am still working out the kinks as to insulation, windows, and ventilation. The advice I have recieved is to definitely put nesting boxes under the widows because the need a dark place to nest and lay. Also not to make the boxes too high off the ground. I live in Wisconsin so the winters are very cold. A fish tank heater sounds like a great idea to heat water! I have two large tanks and have never had any problems with my heaters. Thank you for the great article! I cant wait to have everything together and look forward to making my gitls happy for years to come :)

Kaylee May 9th, 2013

Love the infomtion for chickens because I have chickens myself!

Jordyn May 12th, 2013

do you a kind of chicken that can live inside?

Lissa May 14th, 2013

Chickens prefer to live outside where they can scratch and forage, although sometimes one might bring a chicken inside temporarily to recover from an injury or illness.

Judy June 6th, 2013

I have sat here and read for at least a couple of hours it seems! I have marked this page on my computer to make sure I will find it again. I love all the ideas I’ve gotten from food to housing. just finished re-screening my coop..actually double screening it. Its just a small one to hold mabe 4 hens. I’m just almost OCD about protecting my chickens. Got 4 Barred Rocks on hold. I’ve heard about the fish tank warmers before and had planned to use one.. also had seen that hanging a feeder up will help keep it cleaner. I am in NC so our summer/winters never seem to go as the weathermen think they will. we have pretty sandy soil so I’m going with coarse sand in the runs. I love all the ideas about treats and food…I’ll be cooking more for them than I do my poor hubby who is really not into this chicken thing yet. I’ll win him over..LOL Thanks to everyone… If anyone has some suggestions..I would love them

Eileen Jurek June 27th, 2013

Thank you for the wonderful information. I plan on having chickens next year and I live in northern Indiana.

michiel September 3rd, 2013

Thanks for the thoughts about chickens in winter. One question, however: what winter are we talking about? Some respondents happen to live in California, others live in Maine. And then of course every climate/winter is different for the different chicken breeds. So, what I like to know is:how can one see that it is too cold for their chickens? What behaviour tells us that now we really do have to switch on the heater. I am new to chickens; since two months we have a Finnish breed of chickens and we live in the south of Finland. Temperatures can be as low as -30 C outside (= -22 F). I am now making a place for my chickens in an unwarmed stable (concrete floor and walls, wooden ceiling). I will go for deep litter, starting with a pile from my compost heap, but I doubt that the warmth it generates will be enough. Could someone enlighten me here?

Lissa September 5th, 2013

Hi, Michiel. There are certainly some climates in which you may need to use regular heat during the coldest weather. In the US, really this would occur only in some areas of Alaska. People often ask “how cold is too cold,” but there is no hard and fast answer to that. After all, how cold is too cold for humans? For instance, 50F and sunny may feel warm, while 50 F with rain and wind may be uncomfortably cool. Just like there are no absolute temperature requirements for dogs or cats, there aren’t for chickens. How well they do will depend on many factors, including how long they are exposed to the temperature, whether they are adequately protected from wind and rain, etc. etc.
Using heat as seldom as possible would be ideal. In my area, it very occasionally drops below zero (F) in the winter at night. On those occasions, I will carefully dust and hang a heat lamp in my coop. I may also dust and use a heat lamp if there is a sudden drop in temperature, even if it’s not especially cold overall. For instance, if it’s been 50F and a cold front moves through dropping the temperature in a day to 20F, I may have the heat lamp on for a day or two just to help the birds transition more easily, even though 20F is not generally a problem for my birds.
You can tell your chickens are cold when they ruffle their feathers (creating a larger layer of insulation beneath them) and huddle together. Slow and shallow breathing is a sign that they’re in some distress. You can read more here.
Since you live in Finland and have a breed of chicken that has been developed in Finland, you’re starting the right way! My best advice would be to contact other local Finnish poultry keepers who have this same breed and find out what precautions, if any, they take during winter in your local conditions.

michiel September 5th, 2013

Thank you very much for your very, very helpful information. First of all I will start to watch their breathing… I didn’t realize that they were breathing and certainly didn’t see it or look at it. Interesting! (Tomorrow, when they are awake…)

Any idea how big an area of deep litter can be maintained by five chickens? And me of course.

Lissa September 6th, 2013

I recommend allowing at least 12 square feet (about 1.1 square meters) of outdoor space per bird, and 4 square feet of indoor space (0.37 square meters) per bird, for a total of 16 square feet (almost 1.5 square meters)of space per bird. More is always better, though! In northern climates, you’ll sometimes want to have a smaller indoor space, because the birds’ body heat will naturally keep it a little more comfortable in cold weather. If you choose a smaller coop for your flock, then that should be balanced by giving them a larger outdoor area. However, whether you want a smaller coop or not may depend a little on breed, too. If the Finnish breed you keep tends to be aggressive or restless, you may not want to reduce indoor space because long winters in which they want to stay inside can lead to boredom and bad behaviors like feather picking or egg eating. If your breed generally does well in confinement, you’ll be better able to manage boredom with the types of distractions I mentioned in the post above (such as hanging a cabbage, offering high-protein/high-fat treats and so on).

michiel September 6th, 2013

Thanks again, Lissa, for your most helpful information and your informative help! Fortunately I have space enough, so no problem there, but too much room might also be a problem, me think. Deep litter needs the chickens’ activity to stay alive, isn’t it? And I assume that five chickens (one rooster 6 months old, two chickens of 5 and two youngsters of 2,5 months) can only maintain a certain quantity of deep litter. I could offer them as much as 8 square meters, inside, but that’s a lot, I suppose to keep the deep litter working….

Teresa October 7th, 2013

Lissa,My first year for chickens and I live in North Dakota.How many chickens would you keep in a 8×12 shed? THANKS for all the GREAT information !!!

Lissa October 10th, 2013

Glad we can be of help, Teresa! It would depend on whether the girls have substantial outdoor space. Generally speaking, you want at least two to four square feet of indoor space and 10 to 12 square feet of outdoor (run) space per bird. If you have less space outdoors, then you need more indoors, and vice versa. Especially in the north, a smaller coop can sometimes stay a little warmer because the chickens’ body heat will heat that smaller space up more quickly and efficiently. A mobile tractor style coop also usually requires less space per bird because you’ll be moving the girls to fresh pasture daily. If you have enough run space, though, you could keep up to 24 birds in an 8 x 12 indoor space (presuming enough nests, roosts, feeders, waterers, etc., of course).

Kirsten October 11th, 2013

Thank you for the insights you shared in this article. It is really a great help for me, because this is my first time to spend winter with my “gurlz”. Your tips will surely make my gurlz so busy, comfy and warm during winter.

Christyn November 7th, 2013

The ‘do not heat your coop’ rule will work almost anywhere in the US except up here in AK where it gets down to -50……

Tammy November 13th, 2013

this is such a great site, good information that is so encouraging……the deep litter method has worked for my ladies for the last 3 years, would never have done it without your guidance

Becky November 13th, 2013

Don’t forget to scatter crushed oyster shell to prevent crop impaction and add calcium.Also, fun ways to prevent boredom ; hang bits of string and other things they will look up and peck at.

Lissa November 13th, 2013

Becky, there is a difference between crushed oyster shell and grit. Grit is used to help grind up food. Oyster shell is for calcium, and does NOT act as a substitute for grit.

Amy November 13th, 2013

We do heat our coops and cool them in the summer. When I open them in the mornings they all come running out because they love being outside. I decided to heat them because we have some silkies and they seem to get cold easily.

cuttingras November 14th, 2013

Get a titanium fish tank heater. Don’t use the glass ones. I kept saltwater fish(135 & 55 gal tanks) for a long time. Take it from me. There’s nothing like waking up in the morning to see your fish dead (we dont heat most of our house during the winter). The glass ones fail more often and shatter where as the titanium ones do not. Drs. Foster and Smith always had a decent selection. We’re having temps in the low 20’s tonight. I have 5 bitties and a Momma. One lamp for them and one for they’re water but I am going to order a heater tomorrow. I can’t find my old one.

chicken mama January 6th, 2014

This is my second year with my girls. It is now 14 below and wind chill factor of -38. I have 8 hens one cock and 5 ducks and they are not content without each other. I was a bit concerned with the bitter cold this year but they seem to be doing just fine. I have a coup that is connected to a canvas covered run of 10×15 with an area under the coup for the ducks that has straw bales surrounding the metal wire and the ducks have no problem claiming it for their own. The girls go into the coup or on their perch which is the length of the run. They never use the perch inside the coup. My only problem so far has been one of the girls that had been attacked by a dog. She pulled through with some doctoring and a jar of super honey. I’m afraid she has developed a sweet tooth. She never did regain her feather mass. Also lost 1/2 of her tail feathers that never grew back. I did bring her in and she is my house chicken for the winter. I agree it would be fatal if I put her back out now. Probably in the spring or as soon as the temps reach near 40. I use a heat lamp in the run for temps lower than 0. Today I have two heat lamps and they go under them when they want. lower part of coup run is covered in plastic to block out the nasty wind and the ventilation is in the top. I keep my extra hay and feed in the run. Normally the water is in a heated 32 gal tub with nipples screwed into the bottom but I still bring out two gal of warm water every day, the ducks drink mega amounts. One jingle bell wreath for entertainment otherwise the hay provides scratch time. The rooster spends his time looking out for the old Tom cat and the three red tail hawks that insist on visiting once a day to threaten. Great article glad I stumbled onto it. Fun to read about others passion for their chickens, thanks

Lissa January 8th, 2014

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! I don’t normally heat my coop. As I said above, I only do it when there’s been a sudden drop in temperature. The “arctic vortex” definitely qualified this year! We dropped about 50 degrees in one day in my area of WV… and wind chill was down to 40 below on some ridges (which is where we are). The chickens stayed inside, so were not subject to the wind chill, thank goodness. They seem to be doing well, but I’ll be glad when the cold snap has passed. It’s supposed to warm up to freezing today, and by the weekend should be in the 50s. They probably have cabin fever as much as I do! :)

Donna Tindall June 23rd, 2014

For water…we use five gallon buckets, hung from the rafters, with 3 drinking nipples, installed on the bottom. We have two of these buckets hanging, with birdbath heaters dropped inside for deicing. You can punch a hole in the lid to allow the water to flow(allowing air to get in) and keep the dust out. Sometimes the birds fly around and knock the lids off, so I have a bungee over the lid. Also I put 2 3/4″ “U bolts on handle of bucket to keep the hanging clip, centered, from shifting from side to side on the handle.These prevent the birds from getting the water all dirty, easy to refill (carry clean,water filled, buckets out to coop and dump in the top). I would recommend dumping the old water out and wiping the bucket down with red wine vinegar every now and then. If you need a photo or better explanation, I can provide you with a photo to a personal email.

sammy saunders June 28th, 2014

I live in south western virginia I have 13 hens and 1 rooster our winters can get below 0 temps as low as 15 below I use an automatic watering system which I constructed from pvc piping with the red screw in water nipple the main water reservoir is a cooler and I use a bird bath deicer which has a thermal built in which automatically comes on when needed to deicer and shuts off when not needed and my system keeps my civil fresh water all day and night all winter long and has worked with temps as low as 15 below so far

Bev July 5th, 2014

Can someone help me with a way to keep everyone from scattering and wasting crumbles?

Lissa July 7th, 2014

Sure! Make sure to have the feeder at your chickens’ “shoulder” height. If it is lower, they often want to pick through/scratch out feed. You can also try transitioning from crumbles to pellets (or pellets to crumbles). Sometimes a flock prefers one over the other. My own flock seems to waste less when I use pelleted feed.

Rebekah July 24th, 2014

I am going to be a first time chicken owner. I live by the airport in Colorado Springs and am wanting to get 4 Silkie Chickens. I am building the coop as we speak! Any tips for me so that way I can include them in my building plans? We get pretty cold here December through February and I figured that if it gets too cold I could bring them into my garage (we never park cars in it). I have been doing research for over a month about Silkies and have made plans for even the ground getting too wet and a way to prevent that.

Lissa July 25th, 2014

I talked about the best tips regarding cold in this post: proper ventilation, for example, is a big one! You might consider looking at some other coop plans to see how other people have designed successful coops. We also talk about how to decide what sorts of coop features would be right for you in the My Pet Chicken Handbook. There is no one perfect coop for everyone! A lot depends on what you want and need, and how you plan to manage your flock.

Jan August 30th, 2014

I live in Ohio and we had an exceptionally cold and snowy winter (temp dipped to negative 34 degrees). Many of my friends lost alot of their flock, I didn’t loose a single bird. I insulated my coop, I used thin-sulate. It looks like foil with packing bubbles. I also added a heater, it’s mounted to the walk-in door, it’s one of those paintable heaters. Freezing water was a problem, but I change it often. In addition I would always supply an Iceberg lettuce head because it has a large water content and entertainment. I used a bungy cord to hook the head and gave the gals hours of entertainment and also the hydration they need. My egg production did not even slow over the winter months. I have good ventilation but I used foam padding to cover some of the major air holes but still let’s a air flow through. I cleaned my coop one a week, took off the top layer of droppings, then when the weather broke, I gave it a good cleaning. All my gals made it through healthy.

pat September 12th, 2014

I do not heat my coop. I change water frequently. When it’s really cold, I scramble eggs for the hens.
When a hen moults, I feed her a lot of protein.
My hens are allowed to roam in the main house yard. They keep the ticks and other pests down in the summer.

They are happy girls and lay a lot.

Deanna October 12th, 2014

I’m new to chickens. I put a tarp over the run to keep it dry. I’m also building re-usable plastic panels for the run to keep them warmer. The coop is well insulated also. Everyones experiences on here have been very helpful to me.

Val beard October 16th, 2014

What is deep litter?

Lissa October 17th, 2014

Did you check out the link to information about the deep litter method in the blog post? If not, here it is again. If you did check it out, can you be a little more specific about what you’re not understanding?

Susan October 23rd, 2014

I live in Silverton Colorado in the rocky mountains at 9318 feet. I have a 70×70 coop not insulated. In fact it is a open air coop in the front. I put clear plastic roofing over the front to close it in and allow for solar gain during the day time. I am using sort of a deep litter but will be changing it out every couple months during winter. We get so cold that the air become void of moisture. we average -17 for several weeks on end but can dip to -20 plus during storms. I have 5 hens and 3 rabbits who share the coop space. I am using a large dog crate as a roosting inner coop for the girls with a flat heat panel inside it attached to the roof of the crate. I am using a heated dog water in the larger coop area. Any thought?

Lissa October 28th, 2014

I’m not sure what you mean by “inner coop.” It’s possible you may be confusing the terms “coop” and “run.” The coop is a secure building chickens retire to at night; the run is an outdoor area where they can forage, scratch, sun bathe and so on. Food and water can be kept in either area, just depending on how you’re set up. Presuming there is plenty of space for them outside in the run, in very cold areas, people often choose to keep their chickens in a relatively small coop for more warmth in the cold months. Chickens generate a lot of body heat, and in a small area their bodies can help keep the coop warmer and more comfortable than the outside air. A very large coop is great in many ways, but it’s likely to be extra cold in the winter. If it seems as if your chickens aren’t doing well in the large open air space you’re describing, then during the winter you may want to reduce the size of their coop space so they’ll stay more comfortable. Choosing the right breed for your cold winter area is also key.

Andria October 28th, 2014

Hi! I came across your article as I was researching about my ducks. I have to pekin ducks that I would like to keep for the winter. We have harsh winter here in MN so I was wondering if you had any ideas on how to best keep them warm and safe??

Lissa October 29th, 2014

I’m sorry, but we’re chicken experts rather than duck experts! We think some of the same coop principles would apply, but ducks are quite a bit messier than chickens, and tend to splash water around a lot more. This probably means it would be better for you to double check with someone experienced with that particular type of poultry. We wish you luck, though!

nick November 13th, 2014

I love this so nice and handey

[…] Remember, of course, that your chickens will need proper care and shelter whether they are cold hardy or not. You can learn more about how to prepare your flock for the winter. […]

Jennifer Fisk November 14th, 2014

Just today I stirred the litter in my hen house and added PDZ to dry it up a bit. Then I added half a bale of shavings. Smelled oh so good. I have used the heated bases for the water but I think it cause evaporation and then the moisture condenses on the walls and litter. I think this year, I’ll just keep taking fresh water to them twice a day.

Jeanne Massey November 14th, 2014

I live in upstate NY where the temperatures get down to -25. My coop is built into my unused hay barn and opens into an area that was a run-in for cows about 50 years ago. It provides a marvelous dust bath area! The coop is well ventilated. I have only cold hardy breeds and have never heated my coop in the 4 years I’ve had my girls. No one has gotten frostbite or seemed uncomfortable. I used a heated waterer last winter, but hated it. I think I’d rather change their water a few times a day. The ladies get lots of greens, meal worms, yogurt, cottage cheese, cracked corn, pumpkins, sunflower heads, etc…as well as their regular feed. I’ve seen too many barn fires caused by heat lamps and refuse to take that risk. No one has ever had a respiratory illness…or any illness. These sturdy girls were purchased from My Pet Chicken! My biggest problem is frozen eggs…oh well. By the way, I love my beautiful Chanticleer, but don’t expect an egg jackpot from this breed!

Darlene Brockey November 14th, 2014

We just bought a farm and the chickens conveyed. The coop is a greenhouse. This will be my first winter with chickens and I don’t really know how to get them ready for winter. They aren’t new to winter, most are about two years old. I do close the coop at night. Any suggestions? Thanks

J. M. Rodriguez November 14th, 2014

I live in Central Mississippi, last night and tonight temps in low to mid 20s with wind chill of ?, but very cold and windy. I have two large chicken tractors, 6 by 16 and 10 by 12 with about 350 hens and two roosters. The bottom two and 1/2 feet are half inch hardware cloth and from there up is sheet metal, front wall is four feet of metal and back is nest boxes open from outside and the one foot vent mentioned below. with a three inch gap at the top for venting. Floor is 1 by 2 inch wire so droppings fall to ground. Additional venting is one foot hardware cloth panel full length of back wall facing north, which is covered at night to protect the roosting area from draft. So lots of ventilation. I have a twelve volt system for lights on timer, now it comes on at 4:45 am and off after sun up at 9 am. Twelve volt water heaters turn on at 34 and off at 39 degrees. Bulk feeders hold 150 lbs in each tractor and water is from little giant bowls when not on heated tank waterers. Chickens free roam in woods and pasture when not raining no matter how cold. They get under tractors when raining heavy, if light rain many stay out in it with no problem. They have experienced snow a few times in previous years with no trouble, but not deep. I give scratch grain to forage for one hour before roosting, but only when wind chill is below freezing, to keep them warm till morning.

Lisa November 15th, 2014

I am having a problem with my chickens sleeping on the top of their chicken house. We built a lean to on the side of our shop and closed it In with chicken wire. The coop is one of the prebuilt coops, which is plenty big enough, but they roost on top instead of getting in the coop. I am worried about this winter and them getting to cold roosting on top. Any suggestions on how to get them to go into the coop to stay warmer. I have 5 hens and 2 roosters. They used to go into the coop to sleep until we moved them into the bigger pin.

Lissa November 16th, 2014

Keep them inside the coop for a few days. They need to imprint on it as home again, after the change. Also be sure to check and see if there’s another reason they’re avoiding the coop at night. For instance, some types of mites come out at night to feed, and your chickens may simply be trying to avoid them (if that’s the problem, you would want to get rid of the mites before shutting the chickens inside). Possibly your flock may be trying to tell you to clean the coop more often–they’re closer to the ground and litter, so any odors affect them before we would notice anything. Or possibly it was just the change to the pen. So, see if you can pinpoint and take care of the problem first. If it’s just the pen, it will simply be a matter of retraining them to sleep inside, and you do that by keeping them enclosed for a few days, so they feel safe sleeping on the indoor roosts. Read more about getting your chickens to retire at night on our website.

Ann November 17th, 2014

We have adopted a chicken that came to our yard and stayed so we started feeding her. But now that winter is coming we don’t know what to do with her. We bought straw and we have a big dog house that has not been used in many years, we thought she would get in it at night but we don see any sign that she is getting in on the straw we put in. We know she is going to need some sort of shelter but what. Today its cold and windy and she is hanging around under the carport. Please give me some Idea of how we can keep this poor chicken warm this winter without a chicken coop.

tara November 18th, 2014

thank you so much.. I learned some new thing here.. this is our 1st year ever having chicken’s and our ladie’s 1st winter too. I found this very helpful.. infact in the morning i’m going down to do a few thing’s idk i had to do.

Lissa November 18th, 2014

We offer advice on our website regarding how to teach a chicken where home is. Since you’re new to chicken keeping, we’d also recommend picking up our book, the My Pet Chicken Handbook. It’s a good way to get started, and make sure you can keep your little flock safe from not only the weather, but predators, too!

[…] base. Heated waterers or waterer bases are not always required—some here at My Pet Chicken choose to change out the waterers once or twice a day—but here in Connecticut, our water heater gets a pretty good amount of use. Use your […]

liz Graham December 10th, 2014

Hello fellow chicken lovers Greetings from Bonnie Scotland UK Thank you for all the info as being a new chicken keeper of 3 rescued ones. The arrived bald and I’ve had them five months and they are simply wonderful creatures.They are flourishing day by day are so friendly and they lay one egg each ezvety day. This is by far it seems to me the best site I have come across. Thank you so very much for all your. Comments and info which is much needed. I’m off to try them on vegetarian Haggis! They love porridge every morning in this cold weather!

Maree December 27th, 2014

Thank you for this great forum…I am a new chicken mom and a lot of my worries have been answered through this forum. My question is in regards to the coop I am using. It’s a hand me down in the shape of an outhouse..there are three boxes for my three girls, my problem is we had a three weeks straight rain and the coop doesn’t have a floor…we are the deep litter technique but the ground is still so damp I have considered raising the coop up off the ground to keep the moisture level down. What do you think??

Lissa December 27th, 2014

Yes, wet litter is no good; it can harbor harmful bacteria and produce ammonia as it rots. (You don’t want it to rot until you have it in the compost pile.) Additionally, if you don’t have a floor in the coop, digging predators can be more of a danger. If you can manage a plan to install a floor–one that doesn’t give predators anywhere tyo hide beneath the coop, that would be ideal.

Masif Naqash December 28th, 2014

very use full information

Tina December 31st, 2014

I also use the DLM “deep litter method”. No other way to go. I have had my girls for a couple of years now and added some more this year. I have two coops so they sleep where they want with a covered area and a huge yard they have fenced to themselves. On the really cold days we start the day off with some warm water in their waterer and what I call “Hot Mash”. I feed 100% organic feed so I just take a fair amount and mix it with hot water. Makes a kinda mush and the girls love it! They start off the day hydrated and full of good food. They almost expect it on really cold days now.

mary colgate January 4th, 2015

I have a bantam rooster who loves to sleep on my laundry room window sill. I dont mind but I feel so bad. He does this rain, shine and even in a snow storm.
On occasion he goes into the coop, but would prefer to be where he can see inside the house. Isnt he gonna freeze to death?

Lissa January 4th, 2015

Mary, we have no way to know where you’re located or how cold it gets. Regardless, you should encourage him to sleep in the coop so he’ll be safe from predators.

Barbara January 11th, 2015

This morning I went out to feed my girls (3 silkies) 2 had apparently spent the night in the covered run instead of the coop. They were covered in frost, but under their feathers they were quite warm. Gave them their food and warm water. They seem to be fine. We purchased a coop & run kit. I covered the one run entirely in plastic and leave the pool door open. The other run section is 90% covered in plastic and the door to this side is closed every night. They have deep bedding in the coop and one run with dust bath and feed and water. Hoping to Build a better coop and run in the spring. We live in Maine so it gets quite cold at night. Below zero temps I close the coop at night.

Catherine January 17th, 2015

To keep my chickens water from freezing in the winter I hang a heat lamp( with the shade) about 2 feet above the water bucket and this works very. My coop is well ventilated and I use lots of straw for bedding with a 4-6 inch sand floor under the straw…this keeps my coop nice and dry :)
Great idea,Tina, with the hot mash :) I will give it a try with my girls :)

[…] cold weather, chickens may need extra calories from high fat foods so their bodies have enough energy to maintain body […]

Richard Mangham February 17th, 2015

I live in North Central Texas and I have 5 gallon water jugs with chicken nipples for my flock. I put a fish tank air pump in the jug with the air stone at the bottom. When it is going to be below freezing I turn the device on. This keeps the water from freezing unless the temp is extreme

Margaret Reid February 18th, 2015

One of our mean hens has pulled the feathers off the bottoms of three other hens. It has gotten extremely cold here and this skin is an angry red color now. Should we put Vaseline on the skin? Is there something else we should do? Thank you!

Lissa February 27th, 2015

We’d suggest first trying to figure out why the picking is occurring. Make sure you’re providing your flock with plenty of entertainment in the cold weather when they may be spending more time inside the coop. As for the hens whose feathers are missing, it’s difficult to say. Is the red color because the skin is chapped, or is it red due to the irritation caused by the picking? Either way, a little lotion wouldn’t hurt. You may want to try something like “Pick no more,” which not only contains skin-soothing and moisturizing ingredients like aloe, but also contains ingredients to dissuade pickers.

tj3hop March 1st, 2015

Great information, I’ve been a bit concerned about my flock because they have been bearing the winter elements and I wondered if they should have a heat lamp. We had our coop burn down last summer due to an incubator light, which is why I was hesitant to put a heat lamp in their new space. It was very unfortunate because we build them a beautiful insulated space that was perfect for them and loosing this, after only two summers, saddened us. However we were grateful it was summer and no hens were in the house, just some poor chicks. ☹ Thanks for all the great information. Looking forward to hanging some goodies to keep them busy!

Lissa March 2nd, 2015

So sorry to hear about your fire! That is one of the reasons we generally advise against heating the coop. If you’ve chosen cold hardy breeds and you have appropriate shelter, really the only time to use a heat lamp would be temporarily, if the temperature has dropped really precipitously, for example from 50 to 10 overnight. That can happen a few times a year, depending on where you live. When/if it does, observe all fire safety precautions–your local fire department may even be willing to do a check for you. But in that situation, using a heat lamp for just a day or two to help ease the transition can help them out.

Daryl March 21st, 2015

Very interesting! I live in Canada and I’m going to build my chicken coop this spring, great to know that I need to have it well ventilated. I’m worried about how my boxer and two outdoor cats are going to interact with the chickens. The cats kill birds and have even killed a couple of ruffed grouse. The boxer thinks anything that moves is a toy. Links to coop building plans for cold weather would be appreciated. I’m thinking about building a coop 8′ X 12′ divided in half by a chicken wire partition. The one side would be storage and a place for the cats to call home. Maybe they’d adopt the chickens instead of trying to kill them. Also, would a rooster protect the hens?

Lissa March 22nd, 2015

The rooster does protect the hens… but he won’t be very effective against a dog. Generally the roosters of a flock are good for providing warning to the girls, so they can hide. And a good rooster will throw himself against a predator to give them time to hide, if need be, but he won’t last long against a determined dog. You should read more about chickens and dogs before you start with chickens. Here are many different chicken coop building plans that may work for you, depending on flock size.

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